Galaxy S24 Ultra battery replacement: interactive 3D teardown

All 9 steps

1. 1Power off and take out the S Pen

   Hold the side key and volume down together, choose Power off, and unplug any cable. Push the end of the S Pen where it sits in the bottom edge, at the left as you face the screen: it springs part of the way out. Slide it out and lay it aside, so the heat cannot reach it and it cannot be pushed out while you work. Then turn the phone over onto its screen.

2. 2Warm the edges of the back

   Lay the warm heat pad along each edge of the glass back in turn, about two minutes an edge: the right, the bottom, the left, then the top, where it rests on the camera rings. The warmth softens the adhesive under the rim of the glass. Keep the pad at 65 °C or below, the limit Samsung sets for its own heating pad: the battery lies only millimetres under the glass.

3. 3Open a gap and cut round the adhesive trap

   Press the suction cup onto the glass as near the middle of the right edge as it will sit and pull up steadily until a thin gap opens. Slip a pick into the gap and let go of the cup. Slide the pick down the right edge, along the bottom and up the left edge to just below the side key. Then go back in at the middle of the right edge, up round the top right corner, along the top and down the left edge to meet the first cut. On the left and along the top keep the pick within 4 mm of the edge, and shallower still round the cameras. Avoid this trap: Beside the side keys the adhesive can feel stubborn, and it is tempting to push the pick further in to free it. But an antenna cable runs along the inside of that edge, just under the glass: iFixit’s guides keep the pick within 4 mm there for that reason, and Samsung’s own back-glass guide, written for earlier Galaxy S phones, puts in only the tip of the pick. Pushed in 7 mm, the pick runs into the cable and cuts it. An antenna cable carries the radio signal to its antenna: cut or kinked, it no longer gets it there, so reception suffers, and it cannot be mended, only replaced. Keep the pick at 4 mm or less along this edge, shallower by the cameras, and warm the edge again if it holds. Where the cable runs inside the edge is our own picture.

4. 4Lift the back cover off

   With the adhesive cut all round, lift the glass from the right edge with the suction cup and lay it on the mat outside up, so that its camera rings take no weight. No cable joins it to the phone: the camera rings and the flash and focus windows come away with the glass. What is left of the old adhesive stays on the rim for now.

5. 5Unplug the coil and remove the ten screws

   Lever the wireless charging coil’s press connector up off the main board with the spudger, at the small arrow printed beside it. Then turn out the ten Phillips #00 screws: the four through the coil assembly’s frame over the board into well 1, and the six round the loudspeaker at the bottom into well 2. All ten are the same 3.5 mm screw, but two wells make the refit easy to follow.

6. 6Peel off the coil and lift out the loudspeaker

   The coil assembly is glued in one place, a tab on the frame’s right edge: lift its corner with the spudger and free it with a pick. Peel the assembly gently off the battery, its right side first, and lay it aside. Then pry the loudspeaker up at the arrow engraved on its right edge to release its clip, and lift it out.

7. 7Disconnect the battery, then the cables across it trap

   Lever the battery’s press connector off the main board first: with it off, nothing in the phone is live. Then free the three flat cables that lie across the battery between the main board at the top and the sub-board at the bottom: both interconnect cables, each at the board and then at the sub-board, then the display cable the same way, lifting each one out. Last, unplug the lower antenna cable at the board and lay it off the battery’s edge. Avoid this trap: With the battery connector off it is tempting to go straight to the pull tab. But two interconnect cables and the display cable still lie across the battery’s face, plugged into the main board at one end and the sub-board at the other. Pull the battery up and its face lifts them: held at both ends, a cable stretches over it and tears, or rips its connector off its socket. A torn cable means a new part; a socket pulled off the board can mean a new board. Unplug all three at both ends, lift them out and move the antenna cable aside before the battery moves at all.

8. 8Pull the tab and lift the battery out

   At the battery’s left edge, ease the two small clear tabs above and below the blue pull tab off the battery and fold them back. Peel the blue tab back towards the left edge, then pull it straight up, slowly: the battery comes away from the adhesive layer under it, rising at its left edge first. Never bend it over the frame’s right edge. Lift it out, then peel the old adhesive film off the frame.

9. 9Fit the new battery and close the phone

   Lower the new battery into the frame and press it down. Lay the antenna cable, the display cable and both interconnects back in and press their connectors on, the battery connector last. Clip the loudspeaker in, lay the coil assembly on, drive the ten screws back from the tray and plug in the coil. Wipe the old adhesive off the rim, lay a new adhesive frame and press the back on. Press Reassemble to see each of these in turn.

What you need

• Heat pad or hair dryer · no hotter than 65 °C
• Suction cup lifter and plastic opening picks · picks marked at 4 mm
• Phillips #00 screwdriver · for ten 3.5 mm screws
• Nylon spudger and ESD-safe tweezers · no metal near the battery
• A magnetic screw tray · the coil’s and the loudspeaker’s screws apart
• Replacement battery and a die-cut back adhesive frame · with isopropyl alcohol, 90% or stronger, and swabs

Questions

Safety

Run the battery down below 25% and power the phone off before you start. Keep the heat to 65 °C or below, and never pry, bend or pierce the battery or use metal near it; if it swells, smokes or gets hot, stop, move it onto a non-flammable surface and keep away from the fumes.

• Lithium-ion batteries: never bend, puncture or pry a battery with metal. A damaged cell can go into thermal runaway: it smokes, catches fire and can explode. Discharge it below 25% first; if it swells, hisses, smokes or gets hot, stop and move it somewhere safe.
• Static (ESD): work on an anti-static mat with a grounded wrist strap; a spark you cannot feel can kill a chip.
• Power off: switch the device off and unplug its charger before you open it, and disconnect the battery before touching anything else inside.

About this teardown

3D Spatial Reconstruction: Models are engineered from factual hardware measurements to visualize internal layouts, screw lengths, and hidden cable traps before you open your device. Always verify cable routing on your specific hardware revision.

This is the Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra, modelled at its published size of 162.3 × 79.0 × 8.6 mm: a flat-sided titanium frame, a flat screen, a flat glass back with plain camera rings and no markings, and the S Pen in its silo at the bottom left. It comes apart the way iFixit’s Galaxy S24 Ultra guides take it apart: the back’s adhesive warmed and cut one edge after another, starting at the right edge, with the pick kept within 4 mm; the coil’s connector first; ten 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws; the coil assembly’s glued tab and the loudspeaker’s clip; the battery connector before the cables across the battery; and the battery out by its pull tab.

Where the brief for this teardown differed from the phone, the phone decided. The brief had 17 identical screws holding the coil, an upper board shield and the loudspeaker. There are 17 screws behind the back (PBKReviews’ teardown counts 17, and iFixit’s guides list four for the coil, six for the loudspeaker, five for the earpiece and two for the main board), but they are not all alike, as one of the main board’s is 4.0 mm, and only ten have to come out for the battery, all 3.5 mm: the four through the plastic frame of the coil, NFC and UWB antenna assembly, which covers the main board, and the six round the loudspeaker. The coil has one connector, not three. Two interconnect cables and a display cable lie across the battery, and a lower antenna cable runs beside its right edge. The pull tab is blue, not green, with a small clear tab either side, and the suction cup goes on the middle of the right edge rather than the bottom.

Heat: iFixit warms each edge for about two minutes rather than the whole back at once, and Samsung’s own self-repair page, written for earlier Galaxy S phones, keeps its heating pad at 65 °C or below, so we use that instead of the brief’s 70 °C for 3 minutes. We take the S Pen out first as a precaution; iFixit’s battery guide leaves it in. Our estimates, not measured figures: the corner radii, the size of the battery and the places and sizes of the parts inside, read off teardown photos, and the route of the antenna cable inside the side-key edge, which iFixit warns of but no source we found shows. The 3D runs faster than real hands do: allow about an hour.

Sources: iFixit: Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra Battery Replacement (the order; picks within 4 mm, an antenna cable inside the side-key edge), iFixit: Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra Screen and Battery Assembly Replacement (the S Pen, the board’s 4.0 mm screw), iFixit: Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra USB-C Port and Daughterboard Replacement, iFixit: Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra Rear Cameras Replacement (screws and connectors), Samsung UK: how to change the back glass (heating pad at 65 °C or below; only the tip of the pick goes in), PhoneRepair.co.uk, on an iPhone 16 Pro Max: a kinked or torn coaxial antenna cable no longer gets the signal to its antenna, and is replaced, not mended, Android Headlines: PBKReviews’ Galaxy S24 Ultra teardown (17 screws, the coil with NFC and UWB in one piece), SamMobile: the battery on an adhesive pouch with a pull tab, GSMArena: size, weight, titanium frame and 5,000 mAh battery, SamMobile: the battery (EB-BS928ABY) certified at 4,855 mAh rated, Alternate: the S Pen for the Galaxy S24 Ultra, 104.6 × 5.8 × 4.35 mm, Price source: iFixit, Galaxy S24 Ultra battery fix kit, $39.99 (October 2026).

The 3D models, drawings and text are our own. Samsung, Galaxy and S Pen are trademarks of their owners, named only to say which device this teardown is for; iTakeApart is not affiliated with them.